I have previously written about my love for Frozen Head State Park and its beautiful location in the (sometimes unheralded) splendor of the Cumberland Mountains of Tennessee. There is a lot to do in this intriguing state park, and one of the best things about it is its great camping options.
Frozen Head State Park has a small but terrific frontcountry campground as well as a scenic primitive campground along a creek. The park also has nice backcountry sites as well, with some not that far from a trailhead. I love this for when you want to take the kiddos on an adventure but not too far into the woods in case it’s their first time. Or the weather turns nasty, always a possibility in these mountains.
There is a lot to do in this wonderful state park, easily enough for a camping weekend or even a week-long vacation. There are short hikes to pretty waterfalls, long hikes to epic views, two playgrounds, picnic areas, and some of the nicest rangers I have met in the TN State Park system.
Plus, Frozen Head State Park has an utterly unique attraction right next door- Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, a former maximum security prison, that is now a distillery and tourist attraction. It is a fascinating place with a disturbing but important history and well worth a tour if you have older kids.
To find out more about Frozen Head State Park, such as our favorite hikes, place to eat nearby, and lots of other helpful information, check out Frozen Head State Park In Tennessee Has Great Camping, Hiking, Waterfalls, And A Prison (What?!!) .
Basic Introduction To Frozen Head State Park In TN
Frozen Head State Park is comprised of 24,000 acres located just 6 miles outside of Wartburg, TN in the Cumberland Mountains of East Tennessee. It is about an hour drive WNW from Knoxville, 2.5 hours east from Nashville, and 2 hours NNE from Chattanooga.
The park has several peaks 3,000 ft or higher but is named for Frozen Head Mountain, which is 3,324 feet above sea level and has a fantastic observation tower. (Be careful of hiking up here in late fall/winter/early spring as the name is entirely appropriate.)
There is one road running through the park, Flat Fork Road, which ends at the trailhead for Panther Branch Trail. Most of the main stuff in the park is on this road; the Visitor Center, the frontcountry campground called Big Cove, the Flat Fork primitive campground, picnic area, and the trailheads for almost all of the main trails.
There is one trailhead for Lookout Tower on the east side of the park at Armes Gap. Brushy Mountain Prison is located just to the east of the park, in nearby Petros, TN which is on the road to Armes Gap.
What You Need To Know For Camping In Frozen Head State Park
You have three types of camping options at Frozen Head State Park:
- Frontcountry Camping – Big Cove Campground
- Primitive Camping – Flat Fork Creek Primitive Site
- Backcountry Camping – 9 sites scattered throughout the park
Frontcountry Camping At Frozen Head State Park – Big Cove Campground
Big Cove is a small but cosy campground primarily for tent campers, small RVs/ trailers, and #vanlife people.
Big Cove is the only frontcountry campground in Frozen Head State Park. It is a small campground with only 20 campsites and 2 of those campsites are group sites. The park calls it “rustic camping” because there are no water/ sewer/ electrical hookups at any of the campsites. There is no dump station either.
None of the parking areas look like they handle anything much more than a small pop-up camper although the reservation website says the majority of sites can handle a trailer up to 25 ft. (Group sites #5 and #17 plus regular sites #17, #19, and #20 can handle up to 30ft.) I am a dedicated tent camper so I love the fact that this campground is generally RV-free. I have never heard a generator going while camping here.
There is one bathhouse at the center of the campsite loop and it is fantastic as campground bathhouses go. Large, modern, with lots of counter space next to the sinks (which I love – so handy for your camping toiletry bag), and free hot water showers in large stalls (which I reeeally love). Basically, I have a lotta love for all the amenities at Big Cove Campground.
Big Cove Campground has wonderful modern conveniences – showers, playground, dish washing station, and a free library.
Big Cove Campground has several small details that make it stand out for me as one of my favorite campgrounds (besides the clean and spacious bathhouse with its free showers).
For one, just outside the bathrooms is a nice dish washing station with a hand held sprayer and a wooden countertop to place dishes on. It is so nice when you don’t have to set your bucket on the muddy ground if you are cleaning up after pancakes for 5. (Isn’t it amazing how the little things matter when you are camping? A nice dishwashing station is enough to get me in a good mood.)
The second thing I really like about Big Cove is that you can find a good- sized playground adjacent to Flat Fork Creek by the bridge entrance to the campground. This is a whole afternoon of fun right there between the playground and creek.
My favorite part about Big Cove campground though, is the wonderful Book House. It is like a huge version of those Little Free Libraries people put up in their yards. Walk in and borrow a book to cosy up to in your tent that night. Or pay it forward by leaving a book for the next camper. Build up some good karma.
The bottom 2 shelves in the Book House are full of kids books while the top shelves are adult. There is an overabundance of cheesy romance novels but there are also some decent bestseller thrillers (a la James Patterson, John Grisham, etc). The kids books are geared more to elementary school than middle or junior high but the kids still had a good time perusing.
A Book House needs to be a thing at every campground everywhere immediately. Such a wonderful idea.
About Each Campsite At Big Cove Campground
The campground has 20 sites and a max of 6 people per site except for the 2 group sites (#5 can hold 15 people, # 18 can hold 20 people).
The individual campsites are fairly large. Each site has a tent pad, charcoal grill, picnic table, lantern hanger, and fire ring with grill. The reservation website has dimensions for each tent pad.
Because it is small and there are no generators or RVs, Big Cove tends to be a very quiet campground at night, especially after about 930 pm, even in summer.
Almost all of the campsites are well-shaded at Big Cove Campground, except for maybe #2 as it backs up to the open grassy area around the bathroom. It is maybe 60- 75% shaded whereas the others are more like 80- 100% shaded.
Recommended Campsites at Big Cove Campground – #19 and #20
All of the campsites are fine and I think better than many in the state and national park campgrounds that I have been to. Campsites #1 and #3 are my least favorite because they are so close together though.
If you have your pick of campsites, go for #19 and #20. These campsites overlook Flat Fork Creek, are large sites, and are angled away from the road so they are pretty quiet. Unless the creek is very low in late summer, then the sound of the water can help mask your neighbors.
*A word of warning, the tent pad at #19 has some of the hardest dirt below its top layer. I bent multiple tent pegs trying to sink anything deeper than 3 inches. Granted they were lightweight aluminum tent pegs but I rarely have such a problem staking them. I finally had to move my stakes to outside of the tent pad for the rain fly and forget staking the tent itself. It was the only thing I have found not to like about this campground. So bring extra long guy lines in case you have to do the same.
General Notes About Individual Campsites At Big Cove Campground
Group campsite #18 is nice, set back from the road and with good separation from your neighbors. Campsite #17 is similarly spaced apart/ Campsites #18 and #17 back up to Big Cove Branch so you might get some nice white noise from this trickling branch but it is likely to dry up by late summer/ fall.
Campsites #14 and #16 also back up to Big Cove Branch but they are pretty close together so I do not think they are as good as campsites #17 and #18.
Group site #5 is really large and has a corner on the outside edge of the loop to itself.
Campsites #11 and #12 are nice because they are at the far end of the campground on the outer loop and so are nice and quiet. But they do have several steps up to reach the tent pad area from the parking area.
The campsites on the interior of the loops are probably the closest together, not as bad as some of the campgrounds in the Smokies, but not as much separation as the sites on the outer sides of the loops have. Campsite #8 is probably the best of the inner sites.
A helpful reader mentioned that if it is raining hard, the drainage culvert that runs next to the road can be difficult to cross with a trailer for campsites #13 and #15.
I would take any of the sites on the outer side of the loop over the inner loop except for #1 and #3 as they are quite close together and near the entrance.
With campsites #6, #7, or #15 as you might get some noise from the bathhouse as they are the closest, but with such a small campground, it really does get super quiet at night.
Flat Fork Primitive Group Site – Primitive Tent Camping At Frozen Head State Park
If you think you want to try primitive camping without venturing too far from civilization, then this is your campground. Think of it as backcountry camping “light”.
Just before you get to the end of Flat Fork Road, you will see a small parking area and 8 primitive campsites spaced out between the road and Flat Fork Creek. Each site at Flat Fork Primitive Campground is large, can hold up to 15 people, has a picnic table, and a stone fire ring. (If you are worried about being so close to the road, remember that the park closes at sunset so there is no traffic at night really.)
There is a port a potty for the campsites and bear-proof trash cans but that’s it for campground amenities. However, you aren’t far from the flush toilets at the nearby picnic area, plus the hot showers at Big Cove Campground and at Old Mac Trailhead in the park.
*Flat Fork Creek can run dry sometimes in late summer so don’t 100% count on that for water.
Each campsite gets one parking space. You will need to get a camping parking pass for extra cars left at the parking area at Panther Branch Trailhead or at the picnic area.
I never got any good pictures of Flat Fork Primitive Campground so these are all courtesy of Tn State Parks.
Campsite map for Flat Fork Primitive Campsground Tents at a campsite in Flat Fork Primitive Campground Typical campsite at Flat Fork Primitive Campground
Backcountry Camping In Frozen Head State Park
There are 10 backcountry sites scattered throughout the Frozen Head State Park. Getting to them can be anything from an easy half mile hike or a strenuous 5 mile climb. The reservations website has pretty good descriptions of each site if you click on the name, including how far of a hike it is to reach and if the campsite has a water source. You can always call the Visitor Center as well and talk to a ranger.
Reservations are required for backcountry sites, which you can do through the website or by calling the park office no later than 4 pm the day of. You must leave a piece of paper on your car dash with the name on the reservation, date, and the name of the backcountry campsite. Remember, the park closes at night so unattended cars are not allowed without a reason.
Also, you must hike into your campsite before sunset because the trails close at dusk so plan accordingly. Check the fire sign at the Visitor Center when you arrive so you know if fires are allowed (level 3-5 = No fires, levels 1-2= campfires OK).
I visited the Panther Branch backcountry site and it looked like a great place- lots of flat area for tents, 2 wooden high tables for preparing food, a covered bench seating area, and a large fire ring. Only 0.9 miles from the parking area at the Panther Branch Trailhead and with a seasonal creek behind the campsite, this would be a perfect place to introduce kids to their first backcountry camping experience.
I love that there are 2 tables at the Panther Branch backcountry site. So helpful! The covered bench is another thoughtful touch at the Panther Branch backcountry site.
Tips And Frequently Asked Questions About Camping In Frozen Head State Park
Camping Reservations At Frozen Head State Park
You can make camping reservations online for all the campsites- Big Cove Campground, Flat Fork Primitive Campground, and backcountry sites. The website has decent descriptions and pictures of each campsite, including backcountry.
You should reserve online ahead of time to make sure you get a spot because, although this park is not crowded, its small size and popularity with the few people who seem to know about it mean that the campsites book up quickly on weekends. Weekdays are generally not as busy.
Backcountry campers have to make reservations no later than 4 pm on day of stay. Remember you have to be at your campsite an hour before sunset as the rangers ask everyone to be off trail by then. So plan accordingly.
Stop in at the Visitor Center to check into your campsite, see if there are any cool ranger-led hikes or talks in the park amphitheater, buy some approved firewood, or just say “hi” to the rangers. They have a deserved reputation as some of the most friendly in the TN State Park system and have good advice on current conditions for the campgrounds and trails. I know, I asked them a ton of questions. If you are backcountry camping, you will need to check in to get an overnight tag for your car so you can leave it parked at the trailhead.
Prices For Camping In Frozen Head State Park
All of the campsite prices are per night and there is a range of prices for each campsite if you look on the calendar view on the website. The higher prices are on Fri/ Sat nights and holidays. Weekdays are the cheapest to camp.
In Big Cove Campground, prices range from $17- $23 per night for a regular site and $34- $39 for a group site.
Flat Fork Primitive Campground ranges from $26- $30 per night and backcountry campsites from $9- $11 per night.
Can I Bring My Dog Camping In Frozen Head State Park?
Yep! Like all TN State Parks, Frozen Head is dog- friendly so bring your family’s fur buddy. Just remember they have to be on a 6 ft leash at all times. If my dog could talk, she would give Frozen Head 5/5 Milkbones.
My dog likes tent camping but gets super cold at night so she gets her own down blanket. So spoiled! Ready to go explore on Old Mac Trail in Frozen Head State Park
Park Hours And Admission Cost
Like all TN State Parks, Frozen Head is free to use.
The park is open everyday. It opens at 8am and closes at sunset. And while the entrance gates close at sunset, they don’t lock so you aren’t trapped in. That would be a little too like the nearby prison. 😉
Are There Bears In Frozen Head State Park?
Yes, although I have not seen one in the park myself.
While black bears were never completely eliminated from the Cumberland Mountains, 14 female bears were reintroduced into Big South Fork National Recreation Area in 1996/1997 and their population is now thriving in this nearby park. I have definitely seen bears in Big South Fork, quite a few in fact, so it is very reasonable to think that some have made their way into Frozen Head State Park. Be “Bearwise” when hiking and camping.
Where To Get Food/Gas/Supplies For Camping In Frozen Head State Park
In the park, you will find some supplies at the Visitor Center. They have approved firewood for $5 a bundle, some cold drinks in a small fridge, and maps. They also have souvenir items, such as T-shirts, sweatshirts, coffee mugs, books, etc. I guess if you run out of clothes you can shop here.
There is a Marathon gas station with a decently large convenience store at the turn- off for Petros/ Brushy Mountain Prison (about 15 min from Frozen Head) that has snacks, ice, etc.
In Wartburg, which is also about 15 min away from the park, you will find a Save-A-Lot grocery store as well as 2 small gas stations/convenience stores. Plus, several fast food places (Hardees, Sonic, Subway) and some local restaurants. (Check out “Where To Eat Near Frozen Head” below to see my recommendations.)
Wartburg is a (very) small town so anything specialty you might need (tent pegs, hiking gear), I would be sure to pack from home. Restaurants and stores will also most likely not be open late.
Is There Cell Service At Frozen Head?
Probably not although it can depend on your provider. I use Google Fi (which runs through T- Mobile) and have decent service in Wartburg, spotty service in Petros and Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, and slim to none in the park. I know Verizon is about the same. I am not sure about AT&T but doubt it does much better.
I could get 1- 2 bars at the Visitor Center for texting, not enough for internet beyond basic gmail. No service at the campground or on the trails. This is probably because the Visitor Center it is near the entrance to the park but everything else is tucked further into the holler. I could also get some cell service at the top of Frozen Head Mountain.
Weather At Frozen Head State Park
Any advice I give for what to expect weather-wise when camping at Frozen Head State Park is at best a guideline. The Cumberland Mountains and the Plateau are famously unpredictable for weather. Layers are your friend anytime of year and expect rain. (Treat it like the opposite of the Spanish Inquisition if you are a Monty Python fan.)
It will also matter if you are planning on hiking up any of the mountains or staying down in the valley. Frozen Head Mountain gets its name because the 3,324 tall peak is frequently covered in a sheet of frost so that should tell you something right there.
- Spring (March- May)- Can be perfect hiking weather or icy cold and might be both on the same day. Average highs climbing from 60 F to 76 F by end of May and average lows climbing from 40 F to 64 F. Snow in March is not uncommon. It will rain on average 10-11 days a month. The park is known for its spring wildflowers, usually best seen in April. Camping will get cold at night for sure.
- Summer (June- Aug) – Hot and muggy in the afternoon, pleasant at night. Afternoon thunderstorms are very common. Average highs 83- 85 F, average lows 63- 66 F throughout the summer. July gets the most rain of the year with an average of 14 days with rain, June and August get 2-3 days less. Always put your rain fly on your tent, even if the forecast says no chance of rain – that’s when you are sure to get a pop- up thunderstorm.
- Fall (Sept – Nov) – Usually the best weather for hiking. Highs in the upper 70s in September falling to upper 50s in November. Lows falling from upper 50s to upper 30s. Fall is the driest time of year with only 7-8 days of rain but that means there can be periods of drought/ increased fire risk, leading to burn bans in the park. A burn ban means no campfires so that might significantly change what food you bring camping. The Visitor Center has a fire index sign outside or I would also call ahead to make sure.
- Winter (Dec- Feb) – Cold and possibly sleety. Average highs in the upper 40s, lows in the low 30s. You will see an average of 7-8 days of rain and probably a day of snow/ sleet. The upper elevations will be icy for sure. You need to be prepared for winter camping, especially in the backcountry sites which are at higher elevations than the frontcountry and the primitive campground.
What To Pack For Camping In Frozen Head State Park
Specific Recommendations For Frozen Head:
Layers. The weather is fickle, especially in spring and fall, so bring lots of layers.
Rain Gear. In the summer, afternoon thunderstorms are an almost daily occurrence and even during the rest of the year, rainy days happen 25% to 30% of the time.
Water Container. There are no water hookups at any of the campsites in Big Cove. There is not a water spigot at Flat Fork Primitive Campground and the creek can run dry. Many backcountry sites have water sources but not all of them, and seasonal sources can run dry at those that do. So you will need to fill up containers at the spigots in Big Cove Campground or at the trailheads.
Where To Eat Near Frozen Head State Park
Places To Eat/ Drink In Wartburg, TN
There are a couple of fast food places and local restaurants in downtown Wartburg and along Hwy 62 but these 3 places stand out for me.
Tanner’s Historic Cafe
Run now by the Morgan County Tourism Alliance, Tanner’s Historic Cafe is a country store that originally opened in 1923. It now has a new life now as a cafe serving tasty food in a vintage setting. It is located right on the main square by the courthouse. I love the ethos of the place, the breakfast is large and yummy, and the milkshakes are worth the trip alone. Prices are extremely reasonable too.
Hours:
- Wednesday: 10 am – 4 pm
- Thursday – Saturday: 8 am – 4 pm
- Sunday: 12 pm – 4 pm
MoCo Brewing Project
MoCo Brewing Project is a neat addition to downtown Wartburg and is a cute little coffee shop/ craft brewery/ live music venue. Weekends often have food trucks as well. I can vouch for the lattes being pretty good and also the beer. I have occasionally hit this place up twice in one day while staying in the area – morning coffee on the way to a hike and a beer on the way home.
Hours:
- Monday – Thursday: 8am – 1pm (and also 4pm- 9pm on Wed and Thur)
- Friday: 8am – 10pm
- Saturday: 9am – 10pm
- Sunday: 1pm – 6pm
The Beer Barn
The Beer Barn is another interesting craft brewery addition to the area. (Who knew Wartburg was such a hotbed?!) Set in a small building on a 5th generation family farm, this may be the prettiest place to sip a beer in the area.
Hours: Friday 4pm- 10pm, Saturday 2pm – 10pm
Places To Eat/ Drink Outside Of Wartburg
Lily Pad Hopyard Brewery
If you have the time and like unique places, check out the Lilly Pad Hopyard Brewery in nearby Lancing (it is about 30 min from Frozen Head). This quirky place is well known among climbers, hikers, and paddlers who are here for the nearby Obed Wild And Scenic River.
The Lily Pad started as a campground with beer and now has a full fledged, albeit small, brewery on site and a food truck called the Sauced Frog. This is a fantastic place that makes you want to just hang out with the owners and the other customers and all become best friends. There is inside and outside seating in a variety of unique additions to the place (think multiple huts and porch additions). There will most likely be live music too, possibly from paid professionals or possibly somebody strumming a guitar and having a giant sing- along.
Dogs and children are welcome. There is also tent camping available on site Thur- Sun for $30 a site. See website for details and reservations.
Hours:
- Thursday 4-8, Friday 2-9, Saturday 12-9, and Sunday 12- 6.
- December – March, only open Sat/Sun 12- 6.
- Maybe closed for an extended time over winter holidays so be sure to check the website.
The Warden’s Table At Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary
You don’t have to buy a tour ticket to eat at the onsite restaurant at the prison and distillery. For more information about Brushy Mountain, read Visiting Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary.
Rental Cabins Near Frozen Head State Park
In case you have people in your family who aren’t into tent camping ( I do for sure), I found a couple of cabin options for you. There aren’t any cabins in Frozen Head State Park but there are a few within 30 minutes and even more if you are willing to drive an hour. This whole area is brimming with outdoor recreation opportunities so you can find lots of vacation cabins.
Heads up- There are potential affiliate links below. See our full disclosure policy to find out why we don’t accept freebies or sponsored visits and what our affiliate links mean for you cost-wise (hint- nothing).
Misty Ridge- Brimstone’s Treetop Oasis. A 2 bedroom/2 bath cabin that sleeps 7 near Elgin Tennessee (45 minutes from Frozen Head), this place has terrific sunset views from the expansive porch. If you were looking to see Big South Fork as well, this would be a great place as it is roughly halfway between Frozen Head and Big South Fork. Averages $180 a night.
Haven On The Ridge… An Outdoor Paradise. A 1 bedroom/1 bath places that sleeps 8 (loft bedroom and bed in living room), this cabin is very near to the Misty Ridge cabin mentioned above (so also near Elgin, TN and 45 min from Frozen Head) and enjoys similar outstanding views from its deck as well. Averages $150 a night.
Creekside Cabin at Shady Grove Farm. A 1 bedroom/1 bath cabin that sleeps 3, this charming and dog- friendly place is built with timbers cut at the onsite saw mill. Close to the Obed Wild and Scenic River and Frozen Head State Park, this place is conveniently located for those who like a warm shower and to wash their clothes after a day in the great outdoors without spending a fortune. Averages $79 a night.
Modern Farmhouse Near Windrock. A beautiful 4 BR/ 2 BA farmhouse on 62 acres with a nice outdoor firepit. Can sleep 10 and average $134 a night. Located close to the entrance of Frozen Head State Park as it is not far off the main highway near the Marathon Station in Petros.
Private – Secluded Cabin, close to Windrock. This small 1 BR/ 1 BA cabin has an outside firepit to die for and is in quiet surroundings. Can sleep 4 and averages $200 a night. Close to Frozen Head but nearer Petros and Windrock Park.
Main Street Farmhouse close to Windrock. A 4 BR/ 2 BA cute farmhouse in the middle of Petros (address 307 Main St if you want to find it on Google Maps). A fully remodeled house that can sleep up to 15 people, this is a great location for exploring the area. Averages $400 a night.
What Is The Best Way To Get To Frozen Head State Park?
Located an hour WNW of Knoxville, just outside Wartburg, TN, Frozen Head State Park is not terribly difficult to get to. The park is not far off of State Hwy 62, a well maintained highway that is not super curvy, especially as East Tennessee roadways go.
From Knoxville, head to Oak Ridge and get on Hwy 62 going west, driving through Oliver Springs and Coalfield. After you pass the turn for Petros and Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary on your right, go a few more miles and then look on your right for Flat Fork Rd and signs for Frozen Head State Park. It will take you about an hour to drive there from Knoxville.
If you are coming east from Nashville, then take Interstate 40 East to exit 301/ Jamestown/ Monterey, and get on Hwy 62 headed east (2.5 hours total). If you are coming up from Chattanooga, take Hwy 27 north all the way to Wartburg and then get on Hwy 62 east for just 2 miles (about 2 hours driving). Once you are on Hwy 62 heading east go about a mile past Wartburg Elementary School and look on your left for Flat Fork Road and the signs for Frozen Head State Park.
*Pro – Tip- If you have particularly car sick prone kids and want to limit your time on state highways, then take Interstate 40 to Harriman and drive north on US Hwy 27. (From Chattanooga, take 75N to 40W). US Hwy 27 is a developed, mostly 4 lane highway (except for the last stretch coming into Wartburg which is 2 lane but not super curvy). It will only add 5-10 minutes onto your journey whether you are coming from Knoxville, Nashville, or Chattanooga.
Once you are on Flat Fork Road, you will stay on it all the way into the park. You will know you are in the right place when you pass Morgan County Schools Central Office and more exciting for the kiddos, Morgan County Correctional Institute. There is lots of barbed wire around this large and modern prison. Opening this facility in 2009 allowed nearby Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary to close.
After about 5 min/6 miles of driving on Flat Fork Road, you will see a sign for Rocky Fork Field and Frozen Head State Park on your left. This large grassy space with a gravel parking area and some beach volleyball courts is part of the park but keep going on Flat Fork Road to get to the Visitor Center and the main part of the park.
Things To Do While Camping In Frozen Head State Park
Hiking
My favorite trails with kids are to hike to Debord and Emory Gap Falls as well as the Interpretive Trail.
For a harder hike, check out East Lookout Tower trail to the lookout tower on Frozen Head Mountain.
Splashing/ Fishing In Flat Fork Creek
The kids like to get in the creek near the Big Cove Campground and the creek is also stocked with trout as well so fishing is also an option.
For more detailed information about all of these activities, check out our Complete Guide To Frozen Head State Park. It has trail maps and descriptions, lots more pictures, and other info.
Birding And Wildflower Spotting
Download a fun, free app like Merlin and use your phone to identify bird calls in the park. It is an important waypoint for several species of migrating tropical birds.
Frozen Head is well known for its wildflowers so be sure to get a Wildflower bingo card from the Visitor Center if you are here in April.
Attend A Ranger Talk Or Take A Ranger- Led Hike
Take advantage of the knowledge of the park rangers and go to one of the informative talks in the amphitheater next to Big Cove Campground. Or take one of the ranger-led hikes around the park. Check the schedule on the park website or see the bulletin boards at the Visitor Center.
Visit Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary
This former maximum security prison adjacent to the park boundaries is a fascinating look at the history of this area and Tennessee in general.
Take a tour (either self guided or led by a former inmate or guard) and find out about the coal mine operated by the convicts under brutal conditions as well as the brief escape of James Earl Ray (MLK’s assasin), who scaled the wall into the woods but was defeated by the tough terrain of the Cumberland Mountains.
You can also visit the distillery gift shop and pick up vodka, moonshine, and other liquors (makes a great gift) or eat at the onsite restaurant.
Make Sure To Take A Picture By The Yellow Gate At Big Cove Campground
Why? Because of the Barkley Marathons of course.
Drop the name Frozen Head among a certain segment of the population, namely ultra-endurance runners and those intrigued by the idea of ultramarathons because they think those people are nuts, and you will get an instant recognition. You can even buy a sticker of a yellow gate at the Visitor Center with the words “ You Either Know Or You Don’t.” If you are one of those who don’t (and I wasn’t until I first visited the park), let me enlighten you about this fascinating little corner of human achievement/ suffering called the Barkley Marathons.
The Barkley Marathons, is an annual 100+ mile race held at Frozen Head State Park. This race is rightfully known as one of the hardest races in the world. And it is all because of nearby Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary and James Earl Ray’s brief escape from it. He only made it 8 miles from the prison after being on the run for 56 hours, found shivering in the woods by some locals with bloodhounds. (Read the News Sentinel’s in depth account of the escape here.)
Tennessee ultrarunner and guy I’d love to have a beer with, Gary “Lazarus Lake” Cantrell, figured he could do at least a 100 miles in the same amount of time and hence the Barkley Marathons was born. (The name is another whole story.) Turns out that even Laz could not run 100 miles up and down these mountains in under 60 hours but that hasn’t stopped 35 brave/crazy people from trying to do just that each year.
* When they say “100 miles,” the Barkley is probably more like 120 miles or even more, according to people who have attempted this craziness. Each loop is supposed to be 20 miles but the mileage is notoriously inaccurate (probably on purpose), with each loop being more like a full marathon. And there are 5 loops. In the woods. At night. Not on a trail.
Only 21 people have completed the race since 1989. The miniscule completion rate is probably because the race is mostly off trail, preferring to make participants to hack their way through briar bushes and rhodendron forests on the sides of the mountains. Another reason for the poor completion rate is that the weather in April in the Cumberland Mountains is as fickle as fickle gets. It can be snowing or sweltering and often both in one day.
And maybe the most important reason for the high DNF rate is that the course routinely involves about 60,000 feet of elevation gain overall, which is more than Everest for you guys keeping track at home.
No helpful technology like GPS or phones are allowed, just a compass, a cheap watch from Walmart, and a map you draw yourself from the master map. There are no manned way stations, just some gallon jugs of water left in the woods at certain points which will probably freeze.
The point of the Barkley Marathons is not necessarily the finish but the struggle.
I find everything about the race fascinating and was psyched to camp in the same campground and take pictures of the yellow gate that is the start/finish line for each of the 5 loops. If you want to find out more, the documentary “ The Barkley Marathons: The Race That Eats Its Young” is a compelling 1.5 hour long look at the race and its participants. You can also read “60 Hours of Hell: The Story of the Barkley Marathons” or “Meet Lazarus Lake, the Man Behind the Barkley Marathons,” both from Outside Magazine.
Final Thoughts
Frozen Head State Park is a beautiful state park in the middle of some of the most scenic parts of East Tennessee. It also has one of my favorite frontcountry and primitive campgrounds, as well as beginner- friendly backcountry sites. There are tons of hikes to do from strenuous to easy, waterfalls to see, playgrounds to play on, as well as other fun nearby attractions. All of this makes camping in Frozen Head State Park a fantastic experience for the whole family.
Check out Frozen Head State Park In Tennessee Has Great Camping, Hiking, Waterfalls, And A Prison (What?!!) to find out more about the park and the surrounding area. I put in details about my favorite hikes and waterfalls, plus lots of maps and pictures. Or Why You Should Tour Historic Brushy Mountain Prison if you want to find out more about that compelling historic site.
Happy Trails! – Amanda
Thank you for making this! I am looking forward to reading through your entire site. 😀
Thanks for commenting! So glad you enjoyed it. – Amanda
This is a wonderful article!! Just something you might want to mention about the inner loop of campsites is the very deep trench that runs right next to the road – while this is great for the rain runoff because it rained ALL night, it is very hard to get across with vehicles. For those pulling a trailer, or even with a hitchrack backing into those spots is impossible! We stayed in site 15 last year and ended up needing to unhook our trailer and push it back into the spot (it is a small 8′ trailer) and then backing our suburban in. In the morning we were able to stack up some rocks and with some very helpful neighbors were able to get back out in one shot. But its deep and you will get stuck!
Oh my gosh! That sounds like an ordeal. Thank you so much for commenting, I will be sure to add that to the descriptions so people know in the future. Was it just the rain that made it so difficult to get across the trench or do you think that site in general would be hard for a trailer because it would be hard to back into? Just wondering if I should put a note that anyone with a trailer should probably avoid campsite 15. Love to hear your thoughts since I have not taken a trailer to Frozen Head.
Thanks! Amanda