Everything You Need To Know To Plan A Fantastic Family Adventure To Frozen Head State Park
Tucked away in the mountains on the Cumberland Plateau near Wartburg, Tennessee, Frozen Head State Park might be under the radar for a lot of folks but it shouldn’t be. Frozen Head has all the things you might expect from a great state park- a nice campground, interesting and scenic hikes, pretty picnic areas, and even some waterfalls- but it also has features you don’t expect, like a fascinating historic prison and the hardest ultramarathon on Earth.
Frozen Head State Park’s somewhat off the beaten track location keeps it less crowded than other nearby parks- looking at you Smokies. But the park is still easy to get to, being only an hour from Knoxville or 2.5 hours from Nashville, making it a perfect hidden gem.
5 Reasons Why You Should Visit Frozen Head State Park In TN
- Frozen Head State Park has one of the quietest and most comfortable frontcountry campgrounds I have been to lately.
- There are plenty of swim and splash spots for kids (and adults) on a hot summer day.
- There is a fantastic 360 degree lookout tower on Frozen Head Mountain for fall colors.
- Lots of dog-friendly trails that my pooch still dreams about.
- So many wildflowers in spring.
Plus 2 More Reasons To Visit That Make Frozen Head Different From Any Other State Park I Have Visited
If you like your adventures to have a dash of fascinating side-story, then you will definitely love Frozen Head State Park. It has 2 unique attractions whose history is intertwined with the park and also with each other.
1) Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary – a former maximum security prison that now is a tourist attraction with tours, a restaurant, and a distillery. James Earl Ray (MLK’s assassin) was held here and briefly escaped.
2) Barkley Marathons – a 100+ mile excruciating ultra-marathon that is reputed to be the most difficult in the world. The race is based on James Earl Ray’s escape attempt from Brushy.
I’ll explain more about these 2 intriguing features at the end of the blog. It is such a cool story and makes a visit to Frozen Head a truly unique experience.
General Info About Frozen Head State Park
Size and location of the park
Frozen Head State Park comprises 24,000 acres just 6 miles outside of Wartburg, Tennessee, in the Cumberland Mountains that run through the northern part of the state.
Park layout
There is one main road running partially through Frozen Head State Park, called Flat Fork Road. Most of the main stuff in the park is on Flat Fork Road– the Visitor Center, the Big Cove Campground, Flat Fork Primitive Group Camping Site, the picnic areas, and the trailheads for almost all of the main trails.
Away from Flat Fork Road, there is one other popular trailhead at Armes Gap which is near Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary (east side of the park/right side of the map below). It has one trailhead for the East Lookout Tower Trail.
Camping Options
Frozen Head State Park has 1 small frontcountry campground called Big Cove with 20 campsites, a creekside primitive campground called Flat Fork Primitive Group Site with 8 sites, and 9 backcountry sites.
For an in depth review of camping options, check out Ulitmate Guide To Camping At Frozen Head State Park. I include lots of pictures and recommendations of my favorite campsites, front and back country.
About the name “Frozen Head“
Frozen Head State Park has several peaks 3,000 ft or higher but is named for Frozen Head Mountain, which is 3,324 feet above sea level and has an observation tower for a great view over the mountains.
Activities available in the park
There are over 50 miles of trails in the park, and all but one are for hikers only. (Lookout Tower Trail can also be used by advanced mountain bikers).
For the kiddos, you will find 2 decently large playgrounds, a storybook trail, and plenty of opportunities for splashing and rock hopping in Flat Fork Creek.
Other activities include picnicking, trout fishing, birding, and wildflower spotting in the spring. Keep scrolling for more detailed information about all of these topics.
Can I Bring My Dog To Frozen Head State Park?
Frozen Head, like almost all Tennessee State Parks, is dog-friendly so bring Fido along for the fun, as long you have a max 6 foot leash on them at all times. If my dog could leave a review, Frozen Head would get 5/5 Milkbones.
What To Do At Frozen Head State Park In TN
Hiking, picnicking, playgrounds, splashing in the creek, mountain biking, birding, fishing, and wildflower spotting are some of the activities you can do inside the park.
My Favorite Hiking Trails At Frozen Head
There are over 50 miles of trails in the park and all but one are for hiking only. Mountain bikes can also use both the east and west sides of Lookout Tower Trail, which climbs up to the observation tower at the top of Frozen Head Mountain.
*Important! – Frozen Head requires you to be off trail by sunset and they post the times on trailheads that they expect you to finish hiking or be at your backcountry site. So keep that in mind when planning your hikes.
Easy Trails At Frozen Head State Park
These are my favorite trails for hiking with dogs and young kids that don’t do big miles.
1. DeBord Falls And Emory Gap Falls
- 2.7 miles RT, fairly easy, elevation gain 410 ft
- plan on 1-2 hours to hike (longer if you want to let the kids get in the water)
These two waterfalls are the most popular spots in the park because they are super scenic, pretty easy to get to, and are fun places to splash around in the water. The hike is just under 3 miles RT and not particularly strenuous, although many people with toddlers just hike to Debord Falls and stop there (0.55 miles one- way).
Debord Falls has a taller drop (maybe 10 ft) than Emory Gap Falls which is more of a series of small cascades. Plus, you can crouch behind the water at Debord Falls if you don’t mind getting a little wet and it has a larger pool at the base for wading and even swimming for smaller kids. For those reasons, it tends to be the more popular of the two waterfalls but I actually like Emory Gap Falls better as it is usually much less crowded. (And the crowds really only happen on weekends anyway.)
Getting To The Trailhead:
Walk or drive to the end of Flat Fork Road where the Panther Branch Trailhead is located. There is a small parking area and a covered shelter but no water fountains or bathrooms. Cross the bridge and turn right to start on the trail. There is good signage to point the way to the waterfalls.
On a busy weekend you may have to park at the picnic area or even at the Visitor Center and walk along Flat Fork Road to the Panther Branch trailhead. This is a narrow 2 lane road without much of a shoulder but most cars go slow and other people will be walking along the road too. I did it with kids and my dog walking between the campground and trailhead and didn’t find it to be a problem.
Trail Details:
Once you start walking on Panther Branch Trail, after just half a mile, you will see a sign pointing to the right for Debord Falls. You can walk to the wooden observation deck that overlooks the falls and then take the stairs down to the falls themselves. Or you can go onto Emory Gap Falls first and hit Debord Falls on the way back when its hotter. That is how I like to do it.
A quarter mile past the sign for Debord Falls, Panther Branch Trail will go right, over a wooden bridge but you will stay straight, following the signs for Emory Gap Trail. In another half a mile, the trail ends at Emory Gap Falls.
The trails are rooty and rocky so it is not possible to take a stroller but they are easy enough to do in Chacos and swimsuits while lugging a bag chair and a picnic.
*Some people combine the waterfalls with the rest of Panther Branch Trail and then onto North Old Mac Trail to make a 4.8 mile loop hike the ends at the Old Mac Trailhead on Flat Fork Road. It is about a mile on Flat Fork Road to get back to the Panther Branch Trailhead if you parked there or to walk back to your campsite at Big Cove Campground or at Flat Fork Primitive Group Site.
2. Flat Fork Creek Storybook Trail
- 0.45 miles one- way, very easy, flat, storybook trail
In case you aren’t familiar, a storybook trail is one where signs along the trail each show a page from a book so you can read the story as you progress. My kids loved these trails when they were younger and were always running ahead to the next sign to continue reading the story.
The Flat Fork Creek Storybook trail is a nice, easy walk that’s worth checking out even if you don’t have kids because the trail has some lovely spots along Flat Fork Creek. If you are with kids, there are several spots good for splashing in the creek. The trail also curves around the edge of a large grassy area perfect for picnics, frisbees, and soccer balls.
Even better for those with kids, the Flat Fork Storybook Trail basically connects the two big playgrounds at Frozen Head – the one at the picnic area/ Big Cove Campground and the one at Old Mac Trailhead. I could see us spending the entire day here when the kids were younger just walking between the playgrounds, playing in the creek, and running around on the grass.
Getting to the trailhead: The start of the story begins at trailhead across from the Visitor Center and Old Mac Trailhead. The end of the trail is at the picnic area near Big Cove Campground. You can start at this end near Big Cove Campground, but then, you are reading the story backwards.
3. Interpretive Trail
- 0.5 miles one- way, easy, flat
This is a nice and quiet walk through the woods that follows along the small stream that is Judge Branch. You will find several good spots for getting in the water and even a picnic table at about the halfway mark. The Interpretive signs are interesting, pointing out various trees or geologic formations to look at.
Getting to the trailhead
Park at the Old Mac Trailhead. There is a playground, flush bathroom, and water fountains here.
Trail details
Begin on Old Mac Trail. You will see a sign for the interpretive trail off to the right just a minute down the trail. Follow this flat and easy trail for 0.5 miles until it ends at the intersection with Old Mac Trail again. You can do this as an out and back trail or take Old Mac Trail for 0.3 miles to get back to the parking lot.
* If you are looking for a longer, slightly harder walk, then continue down Judge Branch Trail when you get to the end of the Interpretive Trail. It continues along Judge Branch Creek for 1.2 miles before it ends at South Old Mac Trail. Take South Old Mac Trail back to Old Mac Trail (yes- I also think the trail naming is super confusing) and back to the parking lot for a 2.75 mile total hike with about 400ft of elevation gain. (Old Mac Trail + Interpretive Trail+ Judge Branch Trail+ South Old Mac Trail+ Old Mac Trail).
Harder Hikes In Frozen Head State Park
1. West Lookout Tower Trail
- 12.6 RT, goes to the top of Frozen Head Mountain, moderately hard, gains 1800ft, will take you all day
Besides being one of the quintessential hikes of Frozen Head, the trailhead for West Lookout Tower Trail is also the famous yellow gate from the Barkley Marathons (every runner must touch the gate to complete a loop). So at least hit that for a photo op.
West Lookout Tower Trail is a 6.3 miles one way with an elevation gain of about 1800 feet. The good news is that this is an old logging road and it is a fire road for the park so the uphill is fairly gradual (I said fairly, not amazingly).
West Lookout Tower is more of a family challenge trail than a stroll through the woods but still definitely doable for older kids and the observation tower at top is absolutely worth it on a clear day. I have only hiked it on a rainy day with really poor visibility so I have no good pictures for you.
*Tip- If you want to get to the observation tower at the top of Frozen Head Mountain faster, then head to the Old Mac trailhead near the Visitor Center (big parking area with bathrooms at this trailhead) and take Old Mac+ South Old Mac Trail which gets you to the tower in 3.4 miles but more steeply. Or drive over to Armes Gap and take East Lookout Tower Trail which is the easiest way of all. See the description of East Lookout Tower Trail below.
Getting To The Trailhead: The trailhead is at the north end of Big Cove Campground and is called Big Cove Trailhead. There are only a few parking spots right at the trailhead but you will find plenty at the picnic area and the amphitheater which aren’t far away. The campground has a nice modern bathhouse with showers and everything.
2. East Lookout Tower Trail
- 5.3 miles RT, moderate, will take you half a day
This is the shortest and least strenuous climb to reach the observation tower on the top of Frozen Head Mountain. The trail is on the east side of the park and starts from Armes Gap but the good news is you drive up some of the elevation by starting here. You only gain about 1200 feet if you take East Lookout Trail up to the Observation Tower versus taking the West Lookout Trail which gains about 1800 feet.
The other reason to take this trail is you can detour over to the Old Prison Mine Trail. This trail takes you to the location of the old coal mine worked by the prisoners at Brushy Mountain.
Old Prison Mine Trail – If you are interested, take the trail to the left at 0.7 miles up East Lookout Trail. This is the Old Prison Mine Trail and is about 0.4 miles long. It will lead you to the old prison mine where the prisoners from Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary located down the mountain from here were forced to work.
The prisoners worked the mine from when the prison opened in 1896 up until the mine was discontinued in the 1966. It was hard labor and deaths were common, especially in the early days. WBIR has a thorough article covering the coal mines and history of Brushy Mountain.
Be careful though as this mine trail is sometimes overgrown and can have poison ivy and other unfun trail finds. Wear long pants and take bug spray if you take this detour. The trail ends at the cut thru for the power lines which those who have watched the Barkley Marathons documentary will recognize. Don’t worry if you have no idea what I am referring to, I talk about the Barkley Marathons and why you should watch the documentary at the end of this blog.
Trail Details: East Lookout Tower Trail is also an old logging road and is used as a fire road by the park and so it is a fairly wide, gravel path.
Getting To The Trailhead: Armes Gap is on the east side of the park and you have to drive 25 minutes (14.5 miles) from the campground at Frozen Head to get there.
From Flat Fork Road, go back out to Hwy 62 and turn left. Go 5.7 miles, then turn left again on Hwy 116, following the signs for Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary. Armes Gap is about 5 minutes (1.8 miles) after you pass the prison. There are lots of switchbacks climbing up to the gap so go slow.
You will see a small parking area along the road on your left as you get to Armes Gap. You will know you missed it when you start going downhill on the other side of the gap, at least that is how I knew I passed it the first time. There is enough room for 5-6 cars to park at Armes Gap and you will see the large gate marking the entrance to the trail.
The start of East Lookout Tower Trail. As you can see, it is fairly wide and graveled. -
The small parking area at Armes Gap for East Lookout Tower Trail at Frozen Head State Park.
Picnics And Playgrounds In Frozen Head State Park
Frozen Head has a wonderful picnic area right on the banks of Flat Fork Creek near Big Cove Campground. Nearby is a great little playground, nice bathrooms with flush toilets, and a covered pavilion (this can be rented). There are plenty of tables along the creek itself and more across Flat Fork Road. All the things you need for a fun afternoon with kids.
There is a second picnic area and large playground at Old Mac Trailhead, just down the road from the main picnic area. You can take the pretty Flat Fork Creek Storybook Trail (o.5 miles) between the two or just walk on the road. There is another flush bathroom building here as well.
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Shady playground at Old Mac Trailhead in Frozen Head State Park -
The playground by Big Cove Campground is on the banks of Flat Fork Creek. Guarantee the kids will want to get in.
Mountain Biking In Frozen Head State Park
West Lookout Tower Trail and East Lookout Tower Trail can be used by mountain bikes but these aren’t beginner trails, mostly due to length and inclines. This would be a long slog up and a loooong, bumpy ride down so I don’t think I will be bringing my bike anytime soon but people who love that kind of challenge do bike it.
Birding In Frozen Head State Park
If you are into birding, apparently Frozen Head is part of the Cumberland Mountains Important Bird Area. It sees several species of neotropical migrant birds coming through. On the website, they even have a link to a handy flyer telling what species to look for on several trails and what times of year.
I am terrible at telling bird species apart so it is wasted on me but I have seen people on the trail with binoculars and a lot of excitement. It looked like fun.
Pro Tip – I now have a super cool free app on my phone called Merlin, from Cornell University. It can identify thousands of birds by their song or by a photo. I use it all the time now and you frequently find me hiking with my phone held out to record. Two very enthusiastic thumbs up! I can’t wait to try it next time I go to Frozen Head and see what new birds I hear.
Fishing In Frozen Head State Park
Per the website- “Flat Fork Creek flows through the park and is stocked with Rainbow Trout each spring. Trout are only stocked February to March. Flat Fork Creek is seasonal and may run dry in the warmer months. Fishing is allowed from the Flat Fork turnaround to the park entrance. A TWRA trout stamp is required. The park does not rent boats, nor does it have a boat launch ramp.”
That last part made me laugh because Flat Fork Creek is so shallow and small that I don’t see how it would be possible to launch a boat, or even a tube. I wonder if it is a stock statement from TN State Parks or they had to add it because someone actually did attempt to bring a boat here. I really hope it’s the latter.
There is a junior trout tournament in March so the fishing must be pretty good.
Wildflowers In Frozen Head State Park
Frozen Head is known for its spectacular wildflower displays in the spring, rivaling even the nearby Smokies with its wildflower display. Perhaps because of its off-the-beaten-path status, it sees less poaching and trampling than the Smokies so let’s hope that it stays that way.
There is a good sign about all the different kinds of flowers you can find at Panther Branch Trailhead. And the rangers lead wildflower hikes in the spring so check the official website. If you want to do all things wildlflowers (hikes, photography, plant sales), check out the Wildflower Pilgrimage in April where they have a full slate of events over 2 weekends.
I think East Lookout Trail also has some great wildflowers, particularly yellow lady slippers.
Where To Stay At Frozen Head State Park
Camping In Frozen Head State Park
Camping is one of Frozen Head’s strengths as long as you don’t have a big RV/ 5th wheel camper. It really is only for tent campers/ #van lifers/ or small pop-up campers.
There are 3 choices for camping in the park:
- Big Cove Campground is the frontcountry campground. It is small with only 20 campsites but no water/ sewer/ electrical hookups. It does have a great bathhouse with flush toilets and free, hot water showers. Plus, a wonderful Book House- a free little library with adult and kids books to borrow. So cute! I really love this campground. For tents and small pop- up campers only as it is super small.
- Flat Fork Primitive Group Site has 8 large campsites, a port-a-potty, is on Flat Fork Creek, and is just off the road near Panther Branch Trailhead.
- Frozen Head also has 10 backcountry sites that are quite popular, with varying degrees of difficulty to reach.
Online campsite reservations for all campsites. They go fast on the weekends but weekdays usually are not so busy.
For an in-depth look at Big Cove Campground and Flat Fork Primitive Site as well as what a backcountry campsite would look like, check out my blog about it- Ultimate Guide To Camping In Frozen Head State Park in Tennessee. I included a ton of pictures of many of the campsites, the bath house, etc.
If you are curious to see what all we pack on our family camping trips, check out my “Camping Pack List For Camping With Kids”
Camping Near Frozen Head State Park
Lily Pad Hopyard Brewery
If you can’t camp in the park (and that would be my first choice), then check out the Lily Pad Hopyard Brewery. A fun and quirky place that has a small campground attached to a fabulously unique brewery/ food truck spot. I write more about it under “Where To Eat/ Drink Near Frozen Head” further down in the blog.
Campsites are $30 a night and hold one large tent. If you have more than 2 people, it costs an additional $15 for a max of 4 adults per campsite. Kids under 12 are free and teenagers 13-17 are $5 extra.
Campsites come with a fire ring and showers, flush bathrooms, wood, water, and WiFi are available at the brewery. Email them to reserve a spot. Campground is only open Thur- Sun.
Cabin Rentals Near Frozen Head State Park
There aren’t any cabins at Frozen Head State Park but there are a few within 30 minutes and even more if you are willing to drive up to an hour. This part of Tennessee is a popular outdoor recreation area with Windrock Park nearby for ATV and mountain bike trails, Obed Wild & Scenic River for all the paddlers and climbers, and also Big South Fork National Recreation Area – another fantastic hiking destination.
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Main Street Farmhouse close to Windrock. A 4 BR/ 2 BA cute farmhouse in the middle of Petros (address 307 Main St if you want to find it on Google Maps). A fully remodeled house that can sleep up to 15 people, this is a great location for exploring the area. Averages $400 a night.
Misty Ridge- Brimstone’s Treetop Oasis. A 2 bedroom/2 bath cabin that sleeps 7 near Elgin Tennessee (45 minutes from Frozen Head), this place has terrific sunset views from the expansive porch. If you were looking to see Big South Fork on the same trip, this would be a great place as it is roughly halfway between Frozen Head and Big South Fork. Averages $180 a night.
Haven On The Ridge… An Outdoor Paradise. A 1 bedroom/1 bath places that sleeps 8 (loft bedroom and bed in living room), this cabin is very near to the Misty Ridge cabin mentioned above (so also near Elgin, TN and 45 min from Frozen Head) and enjoys similar outstanding views from its deck as well. Averages $150 a night.
Creekside Cabin at Shady Grove Farm. A 1 bedroom/1 bath cabin that sleeps 3 in 2 beds, this charming place is pet friendly and built with wood cut at the onsite sawmill. Close to the Obed Wild and Scenic River and Frozen Head State Park, this place is conveniently located for those who like a warm shower and to wash their clothes after a day in the great outdoors without spending a fortune. Averages $79 a night.
Modern Farmhouse Near Windrock. A beautiful 4 BR/ 2 BA farmhouse on 62 acres with a nice outdoor firepit. Can sleep 10 and averages $134 a night. Located close to the entrance of Frozen Head State Park as it is not far off the main highway near the Marathon Station in Petros.
Private – Secluded Cabin, close to Windrock. This small 1 BR/ 1 BA cabin has an outside firepit to die for and is in quiet surroundings. Can sleep 4 and averages $200 a night. Close to Frozen Head State Park but nearer Petros and Windrock Park.
Tips And Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Frozen Head State Park
Hours/ Prices
The park is free to use and is open everyday. It opens at 8am and the entrance gates close at sunset. You must be off trail by an hour before sunset.
* Pro Tip- The gates close at sunset but they don’t lock so you aren’t trapped. That would be a little too like the nearby prison ;).
Are There Bears In Frozen Head State Park?
Yes probably, although I have not seen one in the park. While black bears were never completely eliminated from the Cumberland Mountains, 14 female bears were reintroduced into Big South Fork National Recreation Area in 1996/1997 and their population is now thriving in this nearby park. I have definitely seen bears in Big South Fork, quite a few in fact, so it is very reasonable to think that some have made their way into Frozen Head State Park. Be “Bearwise” when hiking and camping.
Where To Get Food/Gas/Supplies
There isn’t much in Wartburg or Petros so anything specialty you might need (tent pegs, hiking boots), I would be sure to pack from home.
In Frozen Head State Park, you will find some supplies at the Visitor Center. They have approved firewood for $5 a bundle, some cold drinks in a small fridge, and maps. They also have souvenir items, such as T-shirts, sweatshirts, coffee mugs, books, etc. I guess if you run out of clothes you can shop here.
There is a Marathon gas station with a decently large convenience store at the turn- off for Petros/ Brushy Mountain Prison (about 15 min from Frozen Head) that has snacks, ice, etc.
In Wartburg, which is also about 15 min away from the park, you will find a Save-A-Lot grocery store as well as 2 small gas stations/convenience stores. Plus, several fast food places (Hardees, Sonic, Subway) and some local restaurants. (Check out “Where To Eat Near Frozen Head” below to see my recommendations.)
Wartburg is tiny so won’t take you long to drive thru and see all the options. I warn you not to expect things to be open late though.
Is There Cell Service At Frozen Head?
Probably not. I use Google Fi (which runs through T Mobile) and have decent service in Wartburg, spotty service in Petros and Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, and slim to none in the park. I know Verizon is about the same, not sure about AT&T but doubt it does much better.
I could get 1- 2 bars at the Visitor Center for texting, no internet surfing. No service at the campground or on the trails. This is probably because the Visitor Center is near the entrance to the park but everything else is tucked further into the holler. I could also get some cell service at the top of Frozen Head Mountain.
Weather At Frozen Head State Park
Any advice I give is at best a guideline because the Cumberland Mountains and the Plateau are famously unpredictable for weather. So layers are your friend anytime of year. It will also matter if you are planning on hiking up any of the mountains or staying down in the valley. Frozen Head Mountain gets its name because the 3,324 tall peak is frequently covered in a sheet of frost so that should tell you something right there.
- Spring (March- May)- Can be perfect hiking weather or icy cold and might be both on the same day. Average highs climbing from 60 F to 76 F by end of May and average lows climbing from 40 F to 64 F. Snow in March is not uncommon. It will rain 10-11 days a month. The park is known for its spring wildflowers, usually best seen in April.
- Summer (June- Aug) – Hot and muggy in the afternoon, pleasant at night. Afternoon thunderstorms are very common. Average highs 83- 85 F, average lows 63- 66 F. July gets the most rain of the year with an average of 14 days with rain, June and August get around 12 and 10 days respectively.
- Fall (Sept – Nov) – Usually the best weather for hiking. Highs in the upper 70s in September falling to upper 50s in November and lows falling from upper 50s to upper 30s. Fall is the driest time of year with rain only on 7-8 days but that means there can be periods of drought/ increased fire risk, leading to burn bans in the park so no campfires.
- Winter (Dec- Feb) – Cold and possibly sleety. Average highs in the upper 40s, lows in the low 30s. You will see an average of 7-8 days of rain and probably a day of snow/ sleet. The upper elevations will be icy for sure.
Where To Eat Near Frozen Head State Park
Places To Eat/ Drink In Wartburg, TN
There are a couple of fast food places and local restaurants in downtown Wartburg and along Hwy 62 but these 3 places stand out for me.
Tanner’s Historic Cafe
Run now by the Morgan County Tourism Alliance, Tanner’s Historic Cafe is a country store that originally opened in 1923. It now has a new life now as a cafe serving tasty food in a vintage setting. It is located right on the main square by the courthouse. I love the ethos of the place, the breakfast is large and yummy, and the milkshakes are worth the trip alone. Prices are extremely reasonable too.
Hours:
- Wednesday: 10 am – 4 pm
- Thursday – Saturday: 8 am – 4 pm
- Sunday: 12 pm – 4 pm
MoCo Brewing Project
MoCo Brewing Project is a neat addition to downtown Wartburg and is a cute little coffee shop/ craft brewery/ live music venue. Weekends often have food trucks as well. I can vouch for the lattes being pretty good and also the beer. I have occasionally hit this place up twice in one day while staying in the area – morning coffee on the way to a hike and a beer on the way home.
Hours:
- Monday – Thursday: 8am – 1pm (and also 4pm- 9pm on Wed and Thur)
- Friday: 8am – 10pm
- Saturday: 9am – 10pm
- Sunday: 1pm – 6pm
The Beer Barn
The Beer Barn is another interesting craft brewery addition to the area. (Who knew Wartburg was such a hotbed?!) Set in a small building on a 5th generation family farm, this may be the prettiest place to sip a beer in the area.
Hours: Friday 4pm- 10pm, Saturday 2pm – 10pm
Places To Eat/ Drink Outside Of Wartburg
Lily Pad Hopyard Brewery
If you have the time and like unique places, check out the Lilly Pad Hopyard Brewery in nearby Lancing (it is about 30 min from Frozen Head). This quirky place is well known among climbers, hikers, and paddlers who are here for the nearby Obed Wild And Scenic River.
The Lily Pad started as a campground with beer and now has a full fledged, albeit small, brewery on site and a food truck called the Sauced Frog. This is a fantastic place that makes you want to just hang out with the owners and the other customers and all become best friends. There is inside and outside seating in a variety of unique additions to the place (think multiple huts and porch additions). There will most likely be live music too, possibly from paid professionals or possibly somebody strumming a guitar and having a giant sing- along.
Dogs and children are welcome. There is also tent camping available on site Thur- Sun for $30 a site. See website for details and reservations.
Hours:
- Thursday 4-8, Friday 2-9, Saturday 12-9, and Sunday 12- 6.
- Dec- March, only open Sat/Sun 12- 6.
- Maybe closed for an extended time over winter holidays so be sure to check the website.
The Warden’s Table At Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary
You don’t have to buy a tour ticket to eat at the onsite restaurant at the prison and distillery. Keep scrolling to read more about it below.
Tanner’s Historic Cafe in Wartburg is on the National Historic Register -
Inside the MoCo Brewing Project. They have kids and adult games and a trendy industrial vibe. -
The eclectic ground of the Lily Pad Hopyard Brewery, one of my favorite places to hang out in the area.
Now To The Prison Part Of The Story…
Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary And The Barkley Marathons
Part 1 – Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary
- 13 miles from Frozen Head State Park (20 minutes) in Petros, Tennessee
Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary is a historic, former maximum security prison dating from 1896. It closed in 2009 and was bought by a couple of entrepreneurs who turned into a tourist attraction/ distillery/ concert venue. Brushy had a massive effect on the surrounding area, from the coal that was mined here as well as being a huge local employer. (The prisoners were moved to Morgan County Correctional Institute, the massive complex you will pass by as you drive into Frozen Head State Park so a prison is still a huge employer in the area.)
Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary held some of Tennessee’s most notorious prisoners. It was where James Earl Ray, the man who shot Martin Luther King Jr, served his sentence. The distillery’s website has a great history of the prison and will give you an idea of what life inside was like.
Nowadays you can sign up for tours of the prison – either self – guided or with a tour guide that was a former guard or inmate. You can even sign-up for an overnight paranormal tour of Brushy (uhh… that’s a hard pass for me. With its violent history, this place is bound to be haunted.)
Besides the prison, you can also visit the distillery gift shop and the restaurant onsite- The Warden’s Table. Pick up some moonshine (of course, it’s East TN after all), vodka, whiskey or schnapps at the distillery. The Warden’s Table has decent Southern cooking (has kids meals) served via a walk- up counter.
Hours: The whole complex (prison, distillery, restaurant) is closed Dec – March for the offseason. In Nov, they are open on Sat- Sun, and in Apr/ May and Sept/ Oct, they are open Thur- Sun. During the summer (June/ July/ Aug) they are open everyday.
Part 2 Of The Story – The Barkley Marathons
Drop the name Frozen Head among a certain segment of the population, namely ultra-endurance runners and those fascinated by the people who would willing run such distances, and you will get an instant recognition. You can even buy a sticker of a yellow gate at the Frozen Head Visitor Center with the words “ You Either Know Or You Don’t.” If you are one of those who don’t (and I didn’t until I first visited the park) let me enlighten you about this fascinating little corner of human achievement/ suffering called the Barkley Marathons.
The Barkley Marathons, is an annual 100+ mile race held at Frozen Head State Park. This race is rightfully known as one of the hardest races in the world. And it is all because of nearby Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary.
Growing up in East Tennessee, I always had heard talk of Brushy Mountain State Prison and its most famous inmate, James Earl Ray, but I never knew that he escaped in 1977 and was on the run for 56 hours, until he was tracked down in the woods by some locals with bloodhounds. He was just 8 miles from the prison, defeated by the inhospitable terrain of the surrounding Cumberland Mountains. Read the Knoxville News Sentinel’s in depth account of his escape.
Tennessee ultrarunner and guy I’d love to have a beer with one day, Gary “Lazarus Lake” Cantrell, figured he could do at least a 100 miles in the same amount of time and hence the Barkley Marathons was born. Turns out “Laz” could not run 100 miles up and down these mountains in under 60 hours but that hasn’t stopped 40 brave/crazy people from trying to do just that each year.
* When they say “100 miles,” the Barkley is more like 120 miles or even more, according to people who have attempted this craziness. Each loop is supposed to be 20 miles but Laz’s mileage is notoriously inaccurate (probably on purpose), with each loop being more like a full marathon. And there are 5 loops. In the woods. At night. Not on a trail.
The race has only been finished 21 times since 1989 when it expanded to 100+ miles from its previous, “easy” 55 miles. Nowadays, if you complete 3 of the 5 loops (roughly 60+ miles in under 40 hours), that’s known as a Fun Run (sarcasm included). You have to complete the full 5 laps (100+ miles) in under 60 hours in order to be considered a finisher for the Barkley.
The miniscule completion rate (21 finishes over 34 years with 35 people attempting every year) is probably because the race doesn’t like to use trails a whole lot, preferring to make participants to hack their way through briar bushes and dogs hobble while going straight up and down the mountain. (This is where the power line cut I mentioned at the Old Mine Prison trail comes in as the course routinely goes straight up this hill.) Another reason for the poor completion rate is that the weather in March/ April on the Cumberland Plateau can be snowing or sweltering. Sometimes both in the same day.
And maybe the most important reason for the high DNF rate is that the course routinely involves about 60,000 feet of elevation gain overall, which is more than Everest for you guys keeping track at home.
No helpful technology like GPS or phones are allowed, just a compass, a cheap watch from Walmart, and a map you draw yourself from the master map. There are no manned way stations, just some gallon jugs of water left in the woods and books you have to tear out your assigned page number. If the water freezes or the book is missing, then too bad for you. “Suck it up buttercup” is definitely the motto of this race.
As horrible as all this sounds, the amazing thing is that the race has been completed 21 times by 17 different people, meaning some people have actually come back to do it all again. You see why I find it so fascinating, I mean, who does this?
The course is meant to see how people deal with near overwhelming obstacles. If someone manages to complete it, then Laz just makes the course harder the next year. The point is not necessarily finishing but the struggle.
I find everything about the race compelling and was psyched to camp in the same campground and take pictures of the yellow gate that is the start/finish line for each of the 5 loops. If you want to find out more, the documentary “ The Barkley Marathons: The Race That Eats Its Young” is a 1.5 hour long look at the race and its participants. I loved it and so has everyone I have recommended it too.
You can also read “60 Hours of Hell: The Story of the Barkley Marathons” or “Meet Lazarus Lake, the Man Behind the Barkley Marathons”, both from Outside Magazine.
Other Parks And Outdoor Recreation Areas To Visit Near Frozen Head State Park
This area of Tennessee is packed with outdoor adventure from stunning scenery along memorable hikes at Big South Fork National Recreation Area and the Obed Wild and Scenic River to fabulous and terrifying mountain bike downhill trails at Windrock Bike Park. The National Park Service has a Visitor Center for the Obed in Wartburg that’s worth a stop by if you don’t know anything about it. They can point you to the best scenic spots and hikes.
There are a ton of ATV trails in the area as well.Check out Windrock Park (different from Windrock Bike Park), Brimstone and North Cumberland Wildlife Management Areas.
The Obed Wild and Scenic River is renowned for the paddling opportunities on its eponymous river. For a lesser challenge, you can paddle the easier sections of the Cumberland River through Big South Fork. The Obed is also famous for its climbing opportunities (better for experienced climbers) as is Big South Fork.
Directions To Frozen Head State Park
Located an hour WNW of Knoxville, just outside Wartburg, TN, Frozen Head State Park is fairly easy to get to. The park is not far off of State Hwy 62, a well maintained highway that is not especially curvy, at least as East Tennessee roadways go.
From Knoxville To Frozen Head State Park (about a 1 hour trip):
Head to Oak Ridge via Pellissippi Parkway (which turns into Hwy 162 once you cross over I 40/ I 75) or via Oak Ridge Highway (Hwy 62). At Solway, Hwy 162 and Hwy 62 merge and you will stay on Hwy 62 all the way through Oak Ridge, heading towards Oliver Springs.
Once you pass Oliver Springs, you will turn right to stay on Hwy 62 heading towards Coalfied and Wartburg. The entrance to Frozen Head State Park will be on your right a few miles after you pass the turn off for Petros and Brushy Mountain. Follow the signs.
If You Are Coming East From Nashville (about a 2.5 hour trip):
Take Interstate 40 heading east to exit 320/ TN- 398/ Genesis Rd (there is a giant Buc-ee’s at the exit if that matters). Turn left onto TN- 298 and cross under the interstate. Go for 24 miles until you turn right onto Hwy 62 headed east.
Turn right again to stay on Hwy 62 and take that through Wartburg. Turn left onto Flat Fork Road just about 2 miles past Wartburg, just past Wartburg Elementary.
If You Are Coming Up From Chattanooga (about a 2 hour trip):
Take Hwy 27 north all the way to Wartburg. Turn right onto Hwy 62, heading east, and take that just about 2 miles until you see the signs for Frozen Head State Park on your left after you pass Wartburg Elementary.
Tip – If you are coming from Nashville or Knoxville and have particularly car sick prone kids, then take Interstate 40 to Harriman and drive north on US Hwy 27.
US Hwy 27 is a developed, mostly 4 lane highway between the interstate and Wartburg, except for the last stretch which is 2 lane but not super curvy. It will only add 5-10 minutes onto your journey.
From Flat Fork Road/ Hwy 62 Intersection To The Park Entrance
Once you turn onto Flat Fork Road, you will stay on it for 4 miles to get to the entrance for Frozen Head State Park. You will know you are in the right place when you pass Morgan County Schools Central Office, or more exciting for the kiddos, Morgan County Correctional Institute. There is lots of barbed wire around this large and modern prison. Opening this facility in 2009 allowed nearby Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary to close.
After about 5 min/6 miles of driving, you will see a sign for Rocky Fork Field and Frozen Head State Park on your left. This large grassy space with a gravel parking area and some beach volleyball courts is part of the park but keep going on Flat Fork Road to get to the Visitor Center and the main part of the park.
Do stop in at the Visitor Center to check into your campsite, see if there are any cool ranger-led hikes or talks in the amphitheater going on, buy some approved firewood, or just say “hi” to the rangers. They have a deserved reputation as some of the most friendly in the State Park system and have good advice on current conditions for the campgrounds and trails. I know, I asked them a ton of questions.
Final Thoughts
I think Frozen Head State Park is one of the best state parks to visit in East Tennessee. If you are a tent camper, then cozy and quiet Big Cove Campground or Flat Fork Primitive Campground are fantastic. You have a wide variety of hiking trails to choose from in the park and there are waterfalls nearby so that’s another reason to visit.
But what really makes Frozen Head State Park unique among TN State Parks is its fascinating history intertwined with nearby Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary and the Barkley Marathons. So go do something different this weekend and visit Frozen Head State Park.
Happy Trails! – Amanda
